So, this morning began with a whirlwind trip through some of the ritzy parts of Amman so that our guide and driver could show us their own homes (or at least the homes they may hope to own one day). This morning was also an eriely calm experience because the traffic was considerably lighter than it was last night. Reason: today is preparation day for the Hajj festival. This is the time when the locals share sesame seed cookies and other wonderful treats with their families and friends ... we even got a taste, but then it was time to set our sights on Petra.
Three hours hence, we arrived at the 'jewel' of Jordan, the city of Petra. Encyclopedias of all types will tell the historical story of this city, but our experience began with a choice between descending aboard a horse-drawn carriage (cost roughly $30 US), on the back of a horse (cost about $5 US), or on foot (cost ... absolutely priceless). Visitors to this place must descend pathways that vary in width and that are surrounded by walls that seem to dwarf the passerby before arriving at such fabled places as 'the treasury', the collonades, the royal tombs and the monastery (which in the time alotted for our journey allowed only one of us to take pictures). Lucky for us he's going to share them with us.
The 800 steps up to the monastery are only part of the challenge facing the pilgrims. Added dangers come from the 'ehem' added odors and evidence of camels, donkeys, horses and other animal life. Add the presence of the omnipresent bedoins and you're beginning to get the picture. Did you know that the bedoins begin to train their children in the art of harassment as early as the age of 2 years? Petra seems to have more shops and opportunities for purchasing any range of baubles than the largest mall I've ever seen. This is a classic case of caviat emptor.
Petra is a site protected and directed by UNESCO so each day it must be completely emptied (including the bedoins) before sunset. Today they began to pack their wares as early as 2:30 pm. The clever tourist might ask him-herself what was coming. It wasn't long before we discovered the answer: a windstorm that whipped up the sand, and a dessert rainstorm (which by the way is nothing compared to a summer shower, but enough to cause danger for those who are still walking on the slippery stones, or trying to run their way back to the entrance in time to catch their bus. The reward for arriving at your destination on time might just include an ice cream (each one of them run us about US$2-4) or a container of Pringles (cost US$4 per can).
Back aboard the coach, we then set sail for the return to Amman, not without a stop at one of the bedoin oases en route for tea, fancy pita bread and the odd bauble which may have been forgotten. By the time we arrived at our hotel, the sun had long gone to bed, but we were famished, so it was a good thing that supper was ready.
Ah, by the way, one of us is celebrating a birthday today, so during the morning meal, we invited all the other travellers to join us in a rousing rendition of the annual musical greeting, and then at the supper hour, some of us took turns signing a card. That's not easy to do when the guest of honour keeps wondering why his compatriots keep disappearing one by one and chooses to come after us to find out the answer to his quest. We had to remedy the situation with a bottle of wine while we presented his gift and the card, filled with written greetings ... echoes of the sentiments of our hearts.
Ok, that's it for now. Tomorrow's adventure will see us in the city of Jaresh before we cross the border back into Israel. Tune in for the continuing saga.
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