Tuesday, February 26, 2013

South Africa, 6

Featherbed has no ostrich - January 22, 2013

Having arrived in Knysna last evening, we didn't have too far to travel this morning in order to meet the ferry which would cruise on the Knysna estuary and deposit us at the Featherbed Reserve (which in this case speaks not of a place of residence for Canada's First Nation people or of South Africa's famous ostrich population, but rather a sanctuary for plant life, animals and birds).


Knysna is one of the seaside towns where vacation homes of the rich and comfortable can be found today.  It became famous thanks to the lumber barons who made their fortunes in the early 1800s thanks to South Africa's plentiful supply of rich and rare woods.  The city is located on the Knysna estuary, which opens into the Indian Ocean by way of the Knysna Headland or the Knysna Heads as they are known to the locals.



Anyone who arrives from overseas and hears the name Featherbed Sanctuary may be tempted to think of an ostrich farm, but in this case that would be an incorrect assumption.  The term Featherbed is used in this case to refer to the plush and easy life portrayed throughout the Knysna estuary: cottages and homes of the rich and well-to-do and some scenery that is beyond any payable price.

 


Our visit to the Featherbed sanctuary included a ride on a train-like vehicle which looked a bit like it was being pulled by a very strong farm tractor.  This vehicle took us up the mountain of the sanctuary and from the top, some of us walked down while others who couldn't walk had the luxury of a return ride.  The ride up and the walk down afforded us the opportunity to view some absolutely breathtaking vistas of the estuary and the Indian Ocean.




At the end of our descent, there was time to enjoy a scrumptious feast before setting out for the shops of the seaside town.  Thankfully there were time limits on our liesure, else I fear that some would be presently in the poor house.



Leaving Knysna behind, we then crossed the mountains en route to Cape Town.  As we rose from the seashore to an elevation of 800 metres above, the temperature dropped from 26C to 17C.  The vegetation also changed on the way.  Large pine forests and a variety of indigenous flora were gradually replaced by much more spartan plant life as we crossed from the windward to the lee side of the mountains.

Back down in the valley, we found that the mountain ranges in this areacreate a micro-climate which apparently is ideal for cultivating hopps, even though the shorter days in South Africa (compared with other beer-producing countries) means that the farmers have to use powerful lights in order to lengthen the 'daylight' hours so that the hopps will grow to maturity.


Having descended the mountains, we found ourselves in a semi-desert-like environment; a place where the ostrich feels right at home.

At our hotel, the staff prepared a traditonal South African BBQ (known locally as a braai) where we were introduced to yet another characteristic of this wonderful country.  The rooms at this hotel remind me of hobbit dwellings reminiscent of gigantic mushrooms, complete with thatched roofs.  Unfortunately, Bilbo Baggins' round door is nowhere to be seen, but the accommodations are indeed very quaint.

No comments: